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Video I Repaired My Totaled Audi R8's Cracked Frame for $500! Insurance Quoted $29,522!
19:12   |   today at 15:42


  • hey guys I'm Sam crack and I've devised
  • one of the sketchiest plans ever to fix
  • the crack frame in our salvage out er8
  • it requires no body shops no special
  • frame machines and only tools that you
  • can buy at the local tool store anybody
  • could get them and probably a few swear
  • words that anybody could say after the
  • gap is closed in our frame Rob the
  • welder is gonna come here he's gonna pay
  • a visit and he's going to weld up all of
  • our cracks and then reinforce them with
  • aluminum plates before we get started I
  • want to move the car over a little bit
  • where all the work is gonna be taking
  • place and then we're gonna disassemble
  • the front corner that's got the crack in
  • it
  • let's get started
  • [Music]
  • this will either be the easiest or the
  • most difficult rebuild project I ever do
  • car is off the ground we've got the
  • wheel removed on this side and we are
  • going in for attack right in this area
  • so the way this occurred at least in
  • theory is that this is a thin part of
  • the aluminum frame here I was a factory
  • flaw according to what you read online
  • and either with a worn-out damper or
  • just over time all the stress on this
  • area causes it to crack now obviously
  • somebody drove this a little bit after
  • it started cracking that's why we've got
  • a decent-sized gap in mine in order to
  • get this back where it needs to do we
  • kind of need to think in Reverse the
  • shock right here is pushing up on the
  • car as the car rides along the road
  • putting force this way this way this way
  • we can see the angle it's sitting so
  • basically with the car on the ground
  • with the jack stand somewhere close
  • under Neath this area here we need to go
  • ahead we need to get this shock removed
  • and then we need to pull in the reverse
  • manner that this shock was pushing up on
  • the frame of the car if we can do that
  • and get this to come back in place we'll
  • need it welded reinforced and the job
  • will be done the shocks really only held
  • in place in two places one right down
  • here one up top here we might actually
  • have to remove the control arm here in
  • order to get it out I'm not positive yet
  • we'll figure that out shortly but once
  • that's done we'll remove the fender
  • liner right here and we should have
  • direct access to hookup frame tools and
  • start pulling this thing
  • [Music]
  • all right let's see oh yeah this should
  • be able to be wiggled out now let me get
  • two hands on it
  • all right that was the paint but the
  • strut is out a minimal movement here it
  • looks like it might have spread a little
  • bit more but to get that strut out it
  • was kind of kinked in there because of
  • the way this is moved and so I really
  • had to put a lot of force downward to
  • get it out but you can see there's
  • nothing in the way here we have somewhat
  • of a clear path we should be able to get
  • our frame tool snaked in here so
  • basically what we need to do is pull the
  • opposite way that the shock was pushing
  • so the shock was that angle like this
  • pushing up jack stand is in the perfect
  • place right there to attach it that's
  • gonna be our anchor point at least I
  • hope right now and we're gonna use up
  • come together I think it's called come
  • together pull together to pull this back
  • downward when we do this we should see
  • the gap on this close up and the gap on
  • this close up if it's not closing up
  • square we're gonna stop we're gonna
  • review what's going on and move it
  • around adjust it until we get this in
  • the right place well that sounds good
  • but of course I got to get the tools
  • before we get to work so you know the
  • best place to buy tools that price is
  • smashed kind of like the frame on my
  • Audi all right we got our tools now I
  • call this thing a bunch of different
  • names this is a pullback ram and of
  • course we've got our hydraulic ram pump
  • right there that's what we need so we're
  • gonna connect this thing to that we're
  • gonna have it up and down I've got a few
  • little links and chains
  • hopefully anchor it again to our jack on
  • the ground and we're gonna start pulling
  • I've got a link in there and what I want
  • to try and do is fish this down
  • underneath here I don't have this
  • anchored to anything yet but just to
  • test and make sure it works I've got
  • this all hooked up the hydraulic line
  • and basically I'm gonna pump this and
  • you should be able to see this contract
  • just a little bit and we want very
  • little movement you know make sure I'm
  • gonna tighten all right here we go
  • you see it move in there again it's not
  • moving anything right now because it's
  • not attached to anything but that should
  • be perfect that's exactly what we want
  • mr. Justin the chains here dude it a
  • little bit of slack that I have but uh
  • we should be able to pull this in a
  • matter of moments really we're taught
  • any more than that and it's gonna start
  • to pull so let's get a camera on the
  • damage and let's see if we can't pull it
  • back where it belongs
  • here we go broke I highly recommend
  • nobody attempts anything they see me
  • doing in this video it's all absolutely
  • ridiculous and as you can see here this
  • didn't work at all at least not right
  • here oh I had a little bit of tension on
  • the frame I thought I'd give it a few
  • hits with the dead blow hammer to see if
  • it would move it at all downward a dead
  • blow mallet or a hammer is made out of
  • like plastic or hard rubber it will not
  • deform metal so even though you're gonna
  • cringe me hitting the frame my Audi with
  • this it didn't do any damage whatsoever
  • well it didn't do any more damage to the
  • frame but it ended up doing damage in
  • another way that's gonna cost a good
  • amount of money you'll see right here no
  • even though a dead blow hammer will not
  • recommend it clearly wrecks glass right
  • there's where I smashed it
  • it's spidered all the way up gonna need
  • a brand new windshield any time you're
  • working on frame work especially this
  • close to the glass they tell you to go
  • and remove the windshield because even
  • just twisting of the structure will
  • crack glass I've cracked glass working
  • on interior pillars this was a huge
  • mistake ins gonna set us back a good
  • amount I'll pop on the screen right here
  • how much a new windshield cost you get
  • an idea that plus labor and that's what
  • we're out for making a boneheaded
  • mistake can't stop now gotta keep moving
  • got to get this frame done now after a
  • few hammer heads even though I killed
  • the windshield which don't remind me
  • about I called a friend of mine by the
  • name of Ben you guys might know him
  • better as Vee tuned he's the guy that
  • does all goon-squad framework a really
  • talented young framer
  • and I asked him hey you know I would
  • just started hitting this with a dead
  • blow I know a dead blow is not gonna do
  • a whole lot of damage and I didn't know
  • that it was gonna actually move it as
  • much as it did even though it doesn't
  • look like it's that moved but anyway he
  • told me that yeah hitting it with a
  • hammer is perfectly normal but you're
  • gonna want to get
  • stronger hammer if you want to get it
  • back in place so big shout out to Ben a
  • kv-2 now I'm gonna link his social media
  • in the description box well because he's
  • been a great help anytime I have any of
  • these frame questions I give him a ring
  • and he's always been there so definitely
  • make sure you check him out another
  • thing Ben let me know is that this is
  • incorrect you want to actually run a
  • bolt through here like the bolt that was
  • holding the strut in place and then hang
  • this on the bolt itself so yeah that's
  • not right I messed that up and luckily
  • it is just a hole for the bolt to go
  • through there's no ads in there I don't
  • think so we'll be good on that but this
  • is still indeed taut right now so well
  • it is what we will do is we'll go ahead
  • and we'll try and push this down just a
  • little bit more and see where it goes
  • with a little bit bigger of a hammer
  • along with Ben's guidance I upgraded all
  • my hardware brand new high-strength
  • chains and links bigger hammers probably
  • the most important component of them all
  • I upgrade the two and three ton jack
  • stand to a 6-ton jack stand
  • remember the rim is capable of pulling
  • up to four ton so there's a lot of force
  • being put on this frame the bigger
  • stronger Hardware in place a few pulls
  • in this frame started coming right back
  • where it belonged
  • now I thought that this would all take
  • place over five ten minutes the first
  • time I pulled it but it really took a
  • couple days straight of pounding and
  • pulling to finally close the gap on the
  • frame and pop check that out this is the
  • strut mount hole that I've been pulling
  • from and it just completely let loose
  • that was bound to happen it was getting
  • stressed here a little bit so what is
  • going to happen now as I've stopped I've
  • got just a little bit of pressure on
  • this not a lot the crack is
  • substantially small from all the poling
  • all the hammering and a welder is coming
  • now to weld a plate over this or just
  • fix this I'm not quite sure we're gonna
  • pull it from there
  • one more time get this as close as we
  • can I mean it is right there much much
  • better than it was before same thing
  • with this this is pretty much equal now
  • on both sides and yeah he's almost here
  • when he is here we will get to work
  • here's a quick photo timeline of the
  • progress made on this frame crack here
  • it is in its original state nothing's
  • been touched you can see the strut is
  • still mounted
  • right here's after the first few frame
  • pulls with the wrong equipment then we
  • upgraded our equipment and the gap
  • starts closing finally after two whole
  • days of tugging it and beaten it we
  • pretty much got the gap closed this is
  • right before our anchor point ripped as
  • for the bar on the side the gap and that
  • was pretty sizable as well but with all
  • the movement with all the hammer hitting
  • it pretty much fits right back perfectly
  • in place you could actually wiggle it
  • and get it right where you need to like
  • a puzzle piece
  • at this point Rob the welder has shown
  • up I know you're wondering can he fix it
  • the answer is yes yes he can
  • [Music]
  • go ahead and build up the sides here I'm
  • gonna do Bridget go ahead and fill it up
  • as much as can set some heat in there
  • I'm gonna on the back side put a little
  • more weld and we're gonna come in here
  • and grind it down as flat I'm gonna put
  • the pad back on there Oh welded up and
  • that should be perfect
  • so this whoa whoa that's hot that piece
  • is gonna go there I touched the pieces a
  • little hot
  • once robber paired the anchor piece we
  • pulled it taut using the rim and then he
  • worked his magic this is it Rob the
  • welder is going to fill the hole Rob
  • you're good at filling holes right hey
  • there's no
  • [Music]
  • this been welded you can put your hand
  • on it it's cooled off at this point
  • we're gonna release the tension on the
  • hook here and hope that this thing holds
  • three two one
  • that was the car moving
  • [Music]
  • once Rob was finished with the
  • driver's-side he went over to the
  • passenger side and reinforced it in the
  • same exact area since it's also
  • susceptible to cracking
  • or reassemble everything we're gonna use
  • some self-etching primer in these areas
  • you can see I've already shot a little
  • bit right here just to see it's kind of
  • cool they try to match it to the frame
  • color obviously it's a little bit
  • lighter no I'm not gonna clean this up
  • I'm not gonna bomb to it I like to leave
  • things like this so you kind of know
  • where your issue is I don't like to
  • start hiding and concealing things in
  • the case that you know we were to have a
  • further issue but let's hope that's not
  • the case so just a little bit of this
  • all right our Qing clear is dry I
  • probably will end up sealing this all
  • off with something as well as on the
  • other side but right now I want to get
  • this car reassembled I want to get it
  • off the ground and I want to see if and
  • how well it drives this is the shock
  • that we took out of the front driver
  • side corner of the car if you remember
  • in the first video when I was driving I
  • said that this corner felt a little bit
  • loose that could have obviously been
  • from the crack in the frame right here
  • but there was also a suspension coat
  • that pointed to an electrical issue in
  • this shock now I'm not a hundred percent
  • positive but usually when these mag ride
  • shocks go bad they leak fluid everywhere
  • and there is no leaky fluid as a matter
  • of fact this shock looks like it was
  • either removed and clean prior to me
  • getting it I have not touched this this
  • is exactly how it came out of the car or
  • was completely replaced there's nothing
  • that looks like an issue with this shock
  • but we're gonna put that shock in we're
  • gonna see how it feels it feels
  • different and if it works we're good to
  • go we don't have to spend two grand on
  • one shock and if you replace one shock
  • you know what they say replace two
  • shocks so do the math otherwise if it
  • doesn't work we're gonna explore either
  • replacing the OEM suspension with
  • another OEM suspension or maybe going
  • aftermarket may be doing coil overs or
  • something like that we'll find out let's
  • reassemble it let's find out exactly if
  • it works or not I started by attempting
  • to press the shock back into the strut
  • mount these fit very snugly in place it
  • wasn't fitting and I noticed there was a
  • little bit of weld material sticking out
  • on the back of the strut mount so I took
  • a dremel tool and just ground that down
  • very very little in between all this I
  • did spray some more itching
  • of course we don't want anything rusting
  • down the line once it dried I tried
  • again and it still wasn't going in place
  • and that's when I noticed that this
  • strut it's a very unique assembly
  • started to seem obvious that something
  • was wrong with the shock all right we
  • pause because I noticed that the strut
  • mount this is the top part this part
  • went underneath it it was a little bit
  • crooked on the top of the shock and we
  • also having a tough time getting it in
  • place so I went to the parts store
  • running the coil spring compressor here
  • compressed that disassembled all this
  • and you could probably tell the rod here
  • in the shock it's a little bit bent this
  • way it's tough to see exactly but it's
  • definitely out of shape this will cause
  • problems so this is gonna be replaced so
  • just got off the phone FCP row we went
  • through a couple different suspension
  • solutions they offer one that is super
  • competitively priced and also is really
  • high quality according to the guys on
  • the Audi r8 forum that run this certain
  • type of shock they're shipping it now I
  • will have it very soon so of course I'm
  • gonna take you along the way when we
  • install the new suspension in the Audi
  • r8 I want to go through a couple of the
  • numbers over the last few days I spent
  • right around $200 on tools and supplies
  • at you know the bargain tool store of
  • course you got to go through the line a
  • couple times I use the coupons right on
  • my cell phone and so that really lowers
  • the cost of all the tools and of course
  • I own them at the end of the day so a
  • couple hundred dollars there I paid Rob
  • the welder $300 for his services for a
  • grand total of $500 to repair the crack
  • frame in the Audi all right we can't
  • forget I did destroy windshield that
  • retails in excess of over $1000 plus
  • there's hardware that goes along with
  • that and there's installation costs I've
  • already scheduled a complete replacement
  • of that even with our setback it's
  • really kind of a minor one we will still
  • likely have the cheapest out er8 on the
  • planet one that should be 100% and
  • completely operable so guys I hope you
  • enjoyed this video if you did be sure to
  • hit that like button also if you're not
  • already following me on Instagram you
  • can do that right here I'm posting build
  • updates there before they go live here
  • on you
  • - we can just click my link in the
  • description box below as well take you
  • right there guys I appreciate each and
  • every one of you watching today and I
  • will catch you very soon
  • [Music]

Download subtitle


My cheap salvage auction Audi R8 had one flaw, and that's a cracked front frame and an estimated repair cost of almost $30,000. We fix it now for way cheaper than any body shop would have.

Thanks to Vtuned:

Email Me:

Mail: Samcrac
PO Box 713
Odessa, FL 33556 - Download Hi-Res Songs

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